Jul. 16, 2018
Un-clecoed the HS-1002 front spar assembly apart to deburr the match drilled holes and also dimpled the HS-905 nose ribs.
View DetailsJul. 15, 2018
Used (8) 1/2″ cleco clamps to hold each HS-1013 spar caps in place to drill the #30 holes. Deburred the holes per plans then match drilled the #40 holes to finish size as I am unable to match drill the...
View DetailsJul. 14, 2018
The HS skins are already dimpled so match drilling is not going to happen. I final drilled the rear spar holes with a #40 bit and then countersunk to the proper .007″ deeper than the standard countersink for a rivet...
View DetailsJul. 12, 2018
Match drilled all the holes in the replacement horizontal stabilizer and the spar doubler and hinge brackets. All of these are new parts.
View DetailsJul. 01, 2018
So after drilling out all the rivets in the HS parts to salvage from the over countersunk spars I decided to REPLACE all the parts instead. My thought is that I want all the holes to match as closely as...
View DetailsJun. 30, 2018
On the first set of HS spars I used a coupon method to check the depth of the countersink. If you are unaware of how this is done I will not educate you with the wrong method. Suffice to say...
View DetailsJun. 28, 2018
Used the AN470 rivet removal tool as well as a few drill bits to get to work on the spars to salvage the doublers, hinge brackets, spar caps, and HS-1008A/B brackets. The dome rivet removal tool is well worth the...
View DetailsJun. 27, 2018
Bob Kosar (EAA74 member and turbine kit helicopter builder) was kind enough to stop by and take a look at my progress. As I recently discovered that my “coupon” method of countersinking the HS spars is no good I thought...
View DetailsJun. 25, 2018
Finished dimpling the HS skins and started collecting the elevator parts. The DRDT-2, pneumatic squeezer, and close quarters dimple die kit worked very well. My steel mandrels for the close quarters dimple die did not last long enough for the...
View DetailsJun. 24, 2018
Used the DRDT-2 to hit the rivet holes inthe field and the pneumatic squeezer for the holes near the edge and the Cleaveland close quarters dimple die set for the forward two holes on the nose ribs. All went really...
View DetailsJun. 21, 2018
Started out by removing the blue plastic from the rivet lines with my butane powered soldering iron. The torch produces enough heat to allow you to run up and down the skin rather quickly and melt the blue plastic with...
View DetailsJun. 20, 2018
Got out the micro stop counter sink to the HS spars and stringers. I used a “coupon” made from the same thickness material of the skins (.025″) that had a hole drilled to size and dimpled to gauge the countersink...
View DetailsJun. 11, 2018
Spent some time deburring the match drilled holes in the HS front spar and ribs. I like using a 1″ wheel on a die grinder a whole lot better to get rid of the burrs. It is rather tricky to...
View DetailsJun. 10, 2018
Clecoed the HS-1016 stringer web to the forward stringer assembly and used the angle drill to match drill the associated holes. Put a #40 bit in the drill then match drilled all the holes in the skins. I used a...
View DetailsJun. 07, 2018
Started by deburring the HS-1001 skins using the vixen file to knock off the nubs from the manufacture process followed by a few passes with the die grinder and 3m wheel. Next installed the HS cradles, skins, HS-905 nose ribs,...
View DetailsJun. 06, 2018
Clecoed the HS-905, HS-1004, and HS-905 ribs to the HS-1002 front spar and match drilled per the plans. I did use the 90 degree drill attachment for the first time to match drill the inboard HS-905/HS-1004 holes into the HS-1002...
View DetailsJun. 05, 2018
Put the (18) AN426AD3-4.5 rivets called out in the flanges of the front spar near the doubler then modified the HS-1004 inspar ribs per the plans. I used a dremel with a cutoff wheel in it to rough cut the...
View DetailsJun. 04, 2018
Squeezed the HS-1002 front spar together per Page 8-6 step 1. The pneumatic squeezer did a nice job on the rivets with the longeron yoke installed. I did have to use a smaller diameter flat set on the yoke so...
View DetailsJun. 03, 2018
Disassembled the HS-1002 front spar assembly (HS-1002 front spar, HS-1007 spar doubler, HS-1013 front spar caps, and HS-1008 front spar attachment brackets), deburred all the holes with the 1″ EXL wheel on the die grinder, red scotch-brited the parts under...
View DetailsMay. 31, 2018
After measuring about ten times I got the center punch and located the holes in the HS-1008L/R parts and drilled them per plans. I then mounted them on some scrap aluminum angle with a pair of C clamps and match...
View DetailsMay. 30, 2018
The replacement AA6-187X2X2 1/2X5 stock came from Vans. Took the Dewalt friction saw and cut the HS-1008R from the stock making the cut about 1/8″ from the finish width dimension (1-1/2″ and 1-21/32″ respectively). Then loaded each part into a vise...
View DetailsMay. 28, 2018
Wet scuffed with red scotch-brite them primed both the HS-906 rear spar doubler and HS-1003 rear spar before getting started with the rivets. Riveted the HS-906 in place then all the HS-912 hinge brackets with rivets rolled in wet primer...
View DetailsMay. 24, 2018
Took the AA6-187x2x2-1/2 angle and marked the dimensions using my flexible steel ruler from the Yardstore.com then loaded it into my Dewalt friction saw. I made the first cut successfully and was working on the second but the material was...
View DetailsMay. 23, 2018
Took the (2) HS-1013 front spar caps I previously trimmed and deburred and nested them one by one into the HS-1002 front spar. I used the smaller cleco clamps (1/2″ I think) to hold them down tight to get rid...
View DetailsMay. 22, 2018
Used the 1″ 3m 7A wheel on the die grinder then followed up with the 1″ EXL wheel to deburr the holes. Hit the straight edges with a vixen file then the a 2″3m 7A wheel on the second die...
View DetailsMay. 20, 2018
Got the replacement HS parts out (prior parts were damaged in original delivery) and inventoried the work I completed a few months back on the other HS parts. I deburred the edges of the HS-1013 front spar caps, HS-1014 Long...
View DetailsMar. 14, 2018
Per the plans used a #30 in the air drill for the 6 holes up top and a #12 in the drill press for the holes in the returns on the bottom (of the picture). Followed this up with the...
View DetailsMar. 13, 2018
Got Sioux Palm Drill out with #12 and #30 bits, the Ryobi electric screwdriver with single flute 100 degree deburr tool, and a 1″ EXL wheel chucked in the die grinder. Match drilled all the common holes and deburred.
View DetailsMar. 12, 2018
Used the 3/8″ belt sander with 180 grit followed by two passes with a V-blade edge deburring tool, die grinder with 2″ blue scotch brite, then a 1″ 3M EXL wheel to deburr the flanges on the HS-1003 rear spar. ...
View DetailsMar. 11, 2018
Finished deburr of the remaining HS-1004 inspar ribs today. Now all of the ribs for the HS are deburred. Replacement HS spars should arrive tomorrow to replace the original two that were bent in the initial shipment as well as...
View DetailsMar. 09, 2018
Decided to get some deburring finished rather than build the doubler for the VOR antenna atop the HS. The recessed flanges on the HS-1004 ribs make it a bit more challenging as they flanges are not all on the same...
View DetailsMar. 08, 2018
Finished deburring the remaining (1) HS904 and (5) HS905 using the 6″ DA 320 grit paper folder over and torn into pieces like floss along with the 2″ 7A and 1″EXL wheels on die grinders. ATS sanding devise seen in...
View DetailsMar. 04, 2018
So after using Kitlog for (2) months I gave up. The idea is great and the logic on the site is wonderful but twice they program would stop allowing me to uploading to the web with one error or another. ...
View DetailsJan. 29, 2018
Got an additional (6) HS-905 deburred. The Dremel Scotch Brite deburr cone tool made from 1″ 7a cut and polish wheel make the inside of the part much easier to process. The cones do not last all that long but...
View DetailsJan. 29, 2018
Got some of the HS parts out and pulled off the blue plastic. I am waiting for VS and Rudder parts to come (trim tab servo, conduit etc) so started deburring. Got HS-1007 HS-906 (1) HS-904 (1) HS-905 done. Went...
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