Mar. 03, 2018
Finished the install of the rudder counter balance nut plates, scuffed the exterior of the inside skin where they top skin overlaps and brushed primer, drilled – dimpled – and installed the blind rivet between the two screws, and finished...
Mar. 02, 2018
Worked the leading edge of the rudder again with the 1-1/4″ bar, clecoed them together, match drilled, deburred, put a slight bend in the outer skin, and blind riveted them together. I did scuff the exterior of the inner skin...
Mar. 01, 2018
Re-primed R-1012 counterbalance rib, squeezed the rivets for the R-1012 and used a “heavy duty” 1-1/4″ OD closet rod from Home Depot with a 7/8″ Husky socked bolted on one end. Mounted a ratchet in the socket and per the...
Feb. 26, 2018
While using the 4″ no hole yoke to squeeze all the rudder skin to rudder spar rivets a few of them got off center. The 4″ no hole yoke is great for reaching things that are inaccessible but does have...
Feb. 25, 2018
Had a nice conversation with Eric at Vans and his recommendation was to make a doubler to place on the top of R-1003 B to bring it level with R-1003 A, a second doubler for the top of the first...
Feb. 24, 2018
Took the squeezer and after the glue had dried on the TE I was able to flip the rudder over and squeeze the left hand skin to spar rivets. The 4″ no hole yoke works but the 3″ standard yoke...
Feb. 18, 2018
With the rudder sitting flat on the table I decided to push forward and install the R-1002 spar into the rudder. I was able to squeeze all the rivets on the left hand side of the rudder (thats the side...
Feb. 17, 2018
Dave McIntire and Bruce Hotz from EAA-74 stopped by to check on my progress and take a look at my work. After they left I started the build day by grinding a flat spot on the ABS portion of my...
Feb. 14, 2018
Riveted R-1003A/B to the respective skins as well as R1004A bottom rib. Previously missed priming one side of the R-608PP and R-607PP reinforcement plates so mixed up a small batch of primer and used a paint brush spunge to prime...
Feb. 13, 2018
Took the rudder skins and back riveted the stiffeners to them. Made a small mistake and got about 3 or 4 cycles of the 2x gun with one of the rivets off the back rivet plate. A slight outward pillow...
Feb. 11, 2018
First day back on the project after recovering from a cold. Used the Cleaveland die and sub structure dimple die on the rudder skins and adjoining stiffeners. Used the 3M Twist-Lok holders (they come in two sizes) and some red...
Jan. 27, 2018
Took all the clecos out of the rudder and deburred all of the match drilled holes. Used a single flute 100 degree hex shank deburring tool (DB04) in a Ryobi cordless screw driver as well as a hand deburring tool...
Jan. 25, 2018
Deburred R-1001 L/R skins. Clecoed one skin and R-1006 trailing edge into place on the skeleton. Marked the TE length, removed, cut, and replaced. Then clecoed the other skin into place and match drilled each corresponding hole between the skeleton...
Jan. 24, 2018
Deburred R-1012 counterbalance rib and R-607PP R-608PP doublers and match drilled them to R-1002 spar. Match drilled R-1003A/B top rib to the R-1002 spar and also the shear clips A-G. Got the skins out and setup to deburr them too!...
Jan. 23, 2018
Deburred R-1002 rudder spar and R-1007 styker plates. Match drilled and counter sunk R-1007 with R-1002 and the rudder horn. Clecoed R-1015 stiffeners with the shear webs and final drilled. Clecoed the sub assemblies to the rudder spar. Thinking about...
Jan. 21, 2018
Waiting for the replacement parts for the vertical stabilizer to come in so I started the the Rudder. Cut parts R-1004 A/B rudder root rib and R1003 A/B rudder tip rib apart and deburred. Cut R-1015 A-G L and R...
