Got out the micro stop counter sink to the HS spars and stringers.  I used a “coupon” made from the same thickness material of the skins (.025″) that had a hole drilled to size and dimpled to gauge the countersink depth.  The method is to countersink the hole so that when the coupon is placed inside it will not allow light to pass by.  After I was done with all (616) holes I went back for a closer look at the spars.  I got out my micrometer and found that some of the holes were elongated.  After a call to Vans and conversation with Eric I found out that this old school method with the coupon is no good and in his opinion the spars needed to be replaced.  His proposed method includes a scrap aluminum piece placed behind the spar that is match drilled into.  This scrap piece behind the spar will allow the countersink pilot something substantial to hold in place while countersinking.  Additionally as per section (5) of the manual you are to set the countersink to put a rivet flush then go (7) clicks or thousandths deeper.  This will allow LOTS of light between a coupon and the skin but when you go to rivet the rivet, skin, and countersunk material will smash together giving a very tight joint.  With the coupon method the union is MUCH looser and can lead to the rivets loosening over time and a compromised connection.  Eric suggested that I replace the spars and countersink per those instructions.  He said I should final drill all the holes in the spars without clecoing the HS assembly back together as that should be fine.  Getting lots of practice!