Date:Jan. 21, 2018


Brief Description:Cut, deburr, and repeat.

Waiting for VS parts to come so start on the Rudder

Waiting for the replacement parts for the vertical stabilizer to come in so I started the the Rudder. Cut parts R-1004 A/B rudder root rib and R1003 A/B rudder tip rib apart and deburred. Cut R-1015 A-G L and R rudder stiffeners apart and deburred. Deburred R-1005 rudder horn and match drilled to R-1004 A/B. Also cut and deburred R-1010 A-G stiffener shear clips. Process for parts: 1. cut with band saw or fiber wheel on dremel tool if it wont fit in the band-saw. 2. rough sand with 36 grit paper on the 1″ belt sander. 2. Grind edges of parts with Scotch Brite 7A cut and polish wheel on 6″ bench grinder. 4. Grind top and bottom edge with 3m EXL wheel on 6″ bench grinder. 5. Hit untouched corners of parts with 220 grit sand paper. 6. Run red Scotch Brite over edges of parts and corners. May also use the blue 2″ die grinder Scotch Brite pad to hit any scratches on the parts.


























Always wear a respirator!  The wheel chucked into the dremel extension did not last and I do not recommend them as for their cost they do not produce much.  The aluminum oxide dremel drum gets loaded with the aluminum and needs to be dressed frequently to keep grinding.  Also not worth the effort.

2″ 3M 7A wheel (cuts and “rough” smooth edge) and 1″ EXL wheel (almost a polish finish).  These wheels are from Cleaveland ( but I have also found a few different grades from much cheaper.  The 3M wheels that I have been using go from 2 to 7 with 7 being the most abrasive.  The pair work really well together and make nice parts.  You can see long scratched going down the rudder horn.  These are from letting the horn sit on the 6″ bench grinder holder while grinding.  I later stopped creating these scratches by placing a piece of 1/8″ balsa sheet down on the bench grinder holder but anything that is not metal would work to prevent these scratches.